ROCKETBOATS :: ROCKET DO'S & DON'TS

We’ve set out these “Do’s and Don’ts” to give you general list of things to consider when using your Rocket 22. Some of these points are covered in more detail and some are pretty self evident, but worth listing all the same.

If you have any other items you think are worth listing here please let us know. And also, if you have any questions about the things we’ve listed please call or email.

Do’s – Maintenance & General

Do McLube the main luff frequently.
Do McLube the telltales and telltale areas on the sails.
Do McLube the hull bottom and hull sides to keep the bottom slick and free of trailering gunge.
Do clean all lines and ropes frequently to get rid of saltwater buildup. (Hint: put them in a pillow case and then in the washing machine)
Do keep your rudder out of the water when not sailing.
Do McLube your foils often. (Hint: monthly)
Do wash your spinnaker frequently with fresh water and then dry and spray with McLube.
Do wear PFDs at all times.
Do install a portable bilge pump which lives down below and discharges into the cockpit through a plastic through hull in the cockpit bulkhead. (Hint: now you have a permanent bilge pump which can be operated with the hatch closed)
Do McLube the sprit bearings and sprit frequently. (Hint: monthly)
Do set the Windex arms at 55 degrees. (Hint: they are only used for running)
Do set the bobstay length carefully to ensure that the sprit loads up the bobstay when it is fully extended. (Hint: this will prevent the sprit from bending or breaking)
Do keep an eye on your bobstay line as it must be always in good shape. (Hint: don’t let it get frayed by mooring lines)
Do sand your foils with 400 and 600 grit and then cut polish, keeping the trailing edges square. The foils are finished with sprayed Teflon epoxy.
Do tie your rudder pin to your rudder with a cord long enough to allow you put the pin in and out.
Do put a safety line on your outboard and outboard bracket pin.
Do set your traveler line up VERY carefully so that with the traveler in hard and the main sheeting in hard the mainsheet blocks almost touch the back of the boom.
Do make sure you have the proper lifting gear for your boat. (Hint: make sure those who use know how to use it properly)
Do extend the outer end of the tiller extension with a short length of ½ hose about 12” long. Tape this to the extension. (Hint: this will keep the extension from getting hung up on the leeward side)
Do McLube your tiller extension joints to make it easy to get the extensions on and off.
Do take your tiller extension off before lowering the main. (Hint: the boom can break them)
Do consider knocking the lugs of your swivel mainsheet base that stop the cleat from rotating 360 degrees.
Do make sure your sprit retractor shock cord is properly rigged and tensioned. The shock cord should join the bobstay rope in a big stopper knot inside the sprit (Hint: the knot stops the sprit from going out too far).
Do read over the Rocket 22 Class Rules. Know the maximum crew weight and what hardware you can change. Make sure you know the sail purchase limitations. Make sure you satisfy the class rules.
Do get a padded mast coat for the lower part of the mast to keep the jib clew from beating up the mast.
Do mark your mainsheet with a felt pen near the back traveler block so you know when the trim is about right.
Do spray bomb paint your carbon mast with clear UV inhibited acrylic enamel once a year to protect the carbon and epoxy in your mast.
Do put a wrap of black tape around each of your lower spreaders 16” out from the side from the mast. (Hint: this will give you a good gauge for judging jib leech twist)
Do put a felt pen mark on the sprit extender line near its cleat when the sprit is fully extended. The sprit must ALWAYS be fully extended with the bobstay TIGHT before you hoist the spinnaker.
Do tape up all cotter pins and rings in the cockpit area especially those near the mast, including the vang blocks, turnbuckles and mast strut pins.
Do keep your spinnaker sheet in one piece and use a brummel splice or simple cow hitch to attach the midpoint of the sheet to the spinnaker clew. (Hint: two bowlines on the clew are heavy and will catch more on the headstay; the brummel splice is the best)
Do tie good fat stopper knots in your cockpit control lines.
Do adjust the bang, traveler and cunningham floating block locations carefully on their lines to ensure complete throw and clear action for the respective tackles. (Hint: this is easy to screw up)
Do call Rocket Boats to get the artwork for the Rocket 22 logo so you can use if for crew shirts or caps for example.
Do check your equipment regularly. The boat does not need a huge amount of maintenance but you need to keep on top of it. Failure of any lines or gear can ruin your day on the water, damage your boat or hurt someone.
Do learn to respect the performance potential of the Rocket 22. This is not your average boat – far from it. Learn to sail it properly and you won’t be disappointed.
Do have FUN!

Don’ts – Maintenance & General

Don’t forget to securely lock down the turnbuckle lock nuts. (Hint: always)
Don’t overload your boat with gear or people either ashore or afloat. (Hint: not even for a short trip to the Pub)
Don’t leave the tiller extension exposed to the sun when you are not sailing.
Don’t forget to run the fuel out of your outboard before storing.
Don’t put pressure on the cabin hatch when it is part way in or out of its retaining slot. (Hint: you will crush the flange of the hatch)
Don’t try to learn to sail your Rocket 22 all in one day. Save those 18+ screamer days until you and your team have learned to sail the boat well in lighter winds. Remember, if you could do it all in one afternoon it wouldn’t be any fun.
Don’t look back. (Hint: they’ll never catch you!)

Do’s – Trailering & Launching

Do lower and raise the keel in accordance with the following: Always have the keel hoist panel in place and securely tied forward in the companionway. Make sure the hoist post is properly seated on the step plug on the cabin floor. Make sure the hoist rope is in good shape. Make sure you know how to operate the hoist ratchet control. When hoisting and lowering make sure that the keel bearing locator pins in the keel foil clear the bearing slots properly. (Hint: check top and bottom, make sure the keel drops ALL the way down. Always keep the boat UPRIGHT while hoisting and lowering the keel)
Do spot your boat carefully on the trailer. Put felt pen marks under the gunnels where he center of the bunks go. (Hint: severe hull damage will result if you trailer the boat in the wrong direction on the trailer)
Do store your mast carefully for trailering.

Don’ts – Trailering & Launching

Don’t forget to install the keel lift hatch panel before lowering the boat on to the trailer by hoist.
Don’t forget to lower the keel on to the trailer pad once you have taken the boat out of the water.
Don’t forget to hoist the keel slightly off the trailer keel pad before ramp launching the boat.

Do’s – Sails & Sailing

Do tune your rig properly so you don’t loose the mast running in heavy air.
Do use your running backstays downwind in winds over 20 knots or in any conditions with heavy seas.
Do tie the keel down at all times while sailing.
Do make sure your sailmaker gives you stiff enough battens. (Hint: too bendy is very slow)
Do make sure that your battens have a way of easily adjusting batten tension. (Hint: check out the Ronstan fittings for this)
Do make sure that your sailmaker uses the correct luff rope, tabling and the correct amount of luff round in the main. (Hint: the boat MUST sail with lots of pre bend in order to stabilize the mast for heavy weather – about 13” of luff round)
Do make sure your sailmaker puts the proper Harken clew block assembly on your jib. (Hint: they can’t be put on later)
Do use the following specification for ordering your spinnaker: Spinnaker to be built to Class Rule maximum dimensions. Sail to be supplied with Rocket 22 class standard hatch bag. Head to be equipped with integral swivel. Clew to have webbing strop (approximately 6”) NO CLEW RING. Luff equipped with high modulus luff cord adjustable at tack. Numbers on sail near luff. The spinnaker luff shall be equipped with 4 pairs of wool luff telltales located approximately 18” back from the luff and spaced roughly equally along the length of the luff.
Do use the following specification for ordering your jib: Jib to be built to Class Rule maximum dimensions. Battens to be maximum length and of proper stiffness. Leech to clear all mast rigging and struts. Jib to be equipped with visibility window and telltale window. Jib to be supplied with UV protected Acrylic tube bag.
Do use the following specification for ordering your mainsail: Main to be built to Class Rule maximum dimensions. Sail insignias to be obtained from builder and located as per Class rules. The boat must sail with a great deal of prebend in order to stabilize the rig. Main luff round with need to be about 13”. Battens must be very stiff and capable of easy adjustment under high loads. The main tack will be stropped to the mast with a Velcro strap provided by the sailmaker. The main headboard will have the boltrope removed for the first 9” of the main luff to allow for proper load to be taken by the halyard at the masthead. The main will have a visibility window. The foot is loose footed. Main to be supplied with UV protected Acrylic tube bag.
Do talk your sailmaker into fixing your main and jib bags to they can be joined together saddle bag style across the boom. This is a good way to store your main and jib.
Do trim the jib very loosely when the spinnaker is up. It is WAY better to have the jib trimmed out too far than to have it over trimmed. Having it over trimmed really messes up the flow across the main and jib. In light winds lower the jib when the spinnaker is up. Try hooking the non moving leg of the jib sheet on the strut chainplate when you are using the jib and spinnaker. (Hint: it moves the jib lead outboard)
Do be sure that you always have a limit knot in the mainsheet to prevent the boom from hitting the struts and breaking the mast. (Hint: be sure to set the knot with the traveler out)
Do be sure to have the outhaul on tightly upwind. It is way better to have the outhaul too tight than too loose.
Do use lots of mainsail batten tension.
Do sit way aft in strong winds. The skipper should be behind the aft arm and the crew should be as far aft as possible when the wind is over 18 knots down wind.
Do keep your spinnaker sheet out of the water upwind by cleating the weather side sheet in the spinnaker cleat with the sheet coming directly from the forestay to the cleat and then back around the shrouds and through the blocks.
Do roll your sails up carefully after use. On the main, lay the sail over the boom and fold it in half carefully at the middle batten with the top part of the sail on top. Next, begin to roll the sail from the middle batten into the sail. Try to roll the back and the front of the sail with equal tension so all the battens come into the roll evenly. If the don’t, adjust each batten so it is parallel to the roll as it comes into the roll. Avoid creases especially in the window areas. Do not store the main for long periods with heavy batten tension.
Do roll the jib after use by folding it in half at the middle batten with the upper part of the sail on top. Next, roll the sail from the middle batten. Try to keep the roll even so that each batten goes on to the roll squarely. (Hint: adjust the batten as it goes on to the roll if necessary to keep them square to the toll without twists). Do not store the jib for long periods with heavy batten tension.
Do ease BOTH the jib and main when sailing upwind in heavy air. (Hint: if the main is flogging the jib is in too tight)
Do hang on to a rope at all times in heavy air (mainsheet, jib sheet, traveler etc.) This way you’ll stay with the boat when you fall off.
Do sail your Rocket 22 as a team. One person cannot sail this boat effectively; you must use teamwork.
Do wear the right clothes while sailing the Rocket 22, especially when the water is cold.
Do practice laying the boat over on its side with spinnaker up in moderate winds. (Hint: this is very important, but hardly anyone does it)

Don’ts – Sails & Sailing

Don’t let the spinnaker fill hard without easing the sheet instantly to relieve pressure on the rig.
Don’t sail without getting your spinnaker luff cord set up properly. (Hint: too tight and the sail will be too round at the front and your won’t be able to point; too loose and the sail will be very hard to keep full, especially when sailing low) This is an easy one to forget!
Don’t sail without having your spinnaker hatch secured firmly in place. (Hint: this will stop you from sinking!)
Don’t sail without a reliable heaving line and flotation device.
Don’t sail without the sprit retraction limit line. This line runs from the aft sprit bearing bulkhead in the bow back to inboard end of the sprit. It is set to length to prevent the sprit from coming too far into the boat. (Hint: keep the outer sprit blocks on the sprit clear of the outer sprit bearing)
Don’t over trim the main down wind. It is very easy to over trim the main off the wind since the sheet pressure is very low. Let it OUT and try to keep the top main leech telltales flying.
Don’t steer your boat with the rudder; use heel – heel to the outside of the turn.
Don’t trim with your weight too far aft. Upwind and down in under 10 knots of wind your total crew center of gravity should be centered on the forward cockpit bulkhead.
Don’t over ease the traveler. When sailing upwind only drop the traveler in very windy and/or rough conditions. Use lots of vang tension upwind when the breeze is up (12+ knots) but be sure to ease the vang when bearing off at the weather mark. Ease the traveler when reaching or running.
Don’t pull the sprit extender line out unless the spi tack line in uncleated. (Hint: you are liable to pull the tack out inadvertently dump the tack into the sea with very bad results)
Don’t ease your main with the cunningham on super tight. (Hint: you will rip the main luff)
Don’t shorten the vang control lines too much.
Don’t pull the spi halyard, sprit extender or spi tack line from ahead of the line director pulleys. (Hint: if you pull these lines directly from their respective cleats you will burn out the cleat fairleads)
Don’t pull the spinnaker hoist lines improperly. When pulling hard on the spi halyard, sprit extender line or the spi tack lines be sure to pull aft of the respective director pulleys and slightly up. Do not pull directly up, forward or to the side. You will break the director pulley or its mounting.
Don’t sail dead downwind in heavy air (18+ knots) with big seas. You are liable to go “mining” when you overrun a big wave. This car be very hard on the rig and sails. Try to sail across the wind and waves in these conditions.
Don’t sail with loose upper shrouds. You will loose the mast.
Don’t get caught in irons when tacking in heavy airs. Everyone hang on, tack fast, ease the sails, get on the new high side then sheet the sails in. Sail low out of the tack.